Nossa viagem iniciou no dia 3 de janeiro de 2016 com destino a El Calafate – Argentina.
Para quem vai à Torres del Paine e ou El Chaltén, El Calafate é um dos principais destinos.
A melhor opção para quem vai a Torres del Paine, é ir de avião até Punta Arenas – Chile.
Estando em Punta Arenas, pega-se um ônibus até Puerto Natales e de lá para Torres del Paine.
Muito provavelmente, os custos em Punta Arenas sejam menores também, pois quando fomos à Puerto Natales, os preços não eram tão diferentes dos aplicados em São Paulo.
Em períodos de alta temporada, que foi o nosso caso, a venda de passagens de ônibus são bem concorridas. Pois estas regiões ficam lotadas de pessoas do mundo todo, que procuram esses destinos e Infelizmente, não é possível adiantar a compra da passagem de ônibus pela internet.
[Atualização – 22-11-2017]
Agora é possível comprar a passagem pela internet!
Acesse esse para comprar a sua: https://www.busbud.com/pt/onibus-puerto-natales-el-calafate/r/4qu3wn-4rh9e7
#Dica: Sobre hostels, particularmente fomos sem realizar qualquer reserva, mas recomendo a quem vá entre Dezembro e Fevereiro, por segurança, faça uma reserva para evitar uma “caça ao hostel”.
Assim que chegamos no aeroporto de El Calafate, passamos por um detector de orgânicos e nosso amigo Renan, foi o “escolhido” para que esvaziasse a mochila e depositasse as linguiças defumadas em um latão.
Segundo os agentes, a ação é para evitar a entrada do vírus da febre aftosa no país. ¬¬
Apenas Renan foi barrado e a maioria das carnes defumadas estavam comigo. Se a máquina não detectou, ou se os agentes fizeram vista grossa, pois precisavam apenas de “um boi de piranha” para fazer o trabalho, não sei dizer. Mas pelo menos, nossa comida para Torres del Paine estava salva.
Optamos por levar linguiças defumadas e algumas latas de atum, bem como arroz, pois a comida liofilizada estava com preço muito elevado, e encareceria muito a logística.
#Dica: Conto mais detalhes sobre a alimentação no post de Torres del Paine.
Bom, após passarmos pelos agentes, contratamos um táxi no aeroporto para nos ajudar a achar um hostel e também nos levar para visitar o Parque Nacional de Los Glaciares – Perito Moreno.
Conseguimos encontrar vaga num Hostel chamado “Lago Argentino” que possui café da manhã incluso, mas cada um prepara o seu, conforme seu gosto.
O banheiro é compartilhado e fica no final do corredor, onde encontra-se um varal, juntamento com o aquecedor central, para que as pessoas possam pendurar suas roupas, toalhas etc.
Hostel Lago Argentino
Visão da rua via google street view:
O preço foi meio salgado, devido a alta temporada e também devido a variação cambial da moeda perante a nossa.
Bom, melhor escutar o valor no vídeo do que eu escrever hahah
Voltando para o táxi 😉
O taxista cobrou o preço de US$ 100 e nossa moeda nessa época, como já falei, já estava muito desvalorizada (Dólar estava R$ 4), então US$ 33 dólares para cada, equivalia a R$ 132 de cada. (Some isso aos R$ 93 de cada, pelo quarto do hostel haha).
O taxista ainda nos levou para alguns lugares para realizar o câmbio de Dólares e Reais, e o melhor local que conseguimos foi um restaurante fino, chamado “Casimiro Biguá“. A cotação foi de R$ 1 = 3,4 ARS. (O hostel também realiza câmbio, e no caso de R$ para ARS também compensava.)
Nota: Tanto o Peso Argentino, quanto o Chileno, são representados apenas por $, então para facilitar o entendimento, usarei no relato as siglas “ARS” e “CLP”
Feito o câmbio, ainda aproveitamos dos nossos US$ 100 pagos, para “explorar” um pouco o taxista e pedimos para nos levar até a rodoviária, para tentarmos comprar as passagens para Puerto Natales. Mas foi em vão, não havia guichê aberto naquele momento.
Então deixamos para ir no fim do dia e seguimos para o Parque Nacional de los Glaciares – Perito Moreno.
Algumas fotos de Perito Moreno
[envira-gallery id=”2784″]
Vídeo de Perito Moreno
Após nossa visita, o taxista nos deixou de volta ao hostel e fomos até a rodoviária tentar comprar as passagens para Puerto Natales, e novamente foi em vão, pois estavam todas esgotadas.
Nosso medo era ter de ficar mais uma noite, além desta em El Calafate e com os preços absurdos que nos deparamos.
Uma funcionária, de um dos guichês da rodoviária, nos preencheu uma pré-reserva e informou que algumas pessoas acabam desistindo, ou alteram seus roteiros. Ela também nos pediu para nos prevenirmos e comparecermos com bagagem arrumada para a rodoviária, a partir das 9h do dia 04. E assim o fizemos.
No dia seguinte, tomamos um café da manhã, arrumamos nossas coisas e fomos para a rodoviária.
Como não tínhamos certeza de que conseguiríamos alguma passagem nesse dia, deixamos nossas coisas guardadas no hostel.
Nossa pré-reserva no guichê não se confirmou, pois não sobraram vagas mesmo. Então recomeçamos a corrida pela compra de passagens para Puerto Natales.
Em um dos guichês, nos recomendaram comprar para Río Turbio, daí de lá conseguir uma carona até Puerto Natales.
E assim, o fizemos…
Ah… o preço da viagem de ônibus até Río Túrbio: R$ 150 😉 mas com direito a Café haha
Então o nosso percurso foi o seguinte:
De El Calafate, o ônibus segue para Esperanza, fazendo uma parada em um posto de gasolina. De lá pegamos um traslado, que segue para Río Turbio.
Em Río Túrbio, pegamos um táxi que nos levou até a aduana da divisa com o Chile (+ R$30 de cada) e lá, finalmente, conseguimos uma carona para Puerto Natales \o/
Mapa do nosso trajeto
Abaixo segue o vídeo resumo da nossa viagem até Puerto Natales
Algumas fotos durante a Viagem
[envira-gallery id=”2804″]
Como disse lá no início, no Chile os custos são mais de acordo com a nossa realidade. E também foi mais vantajoso termos feito o câmbio de pesos chilenos no Brasil, do que lá.
Quando cambiamos, R$ 1 equivalia 161,81 CLPs / ou então 1 CLP = R$ 0,00618 (cotação em 09/12/2015).
Atualmente está mais barato ainda, sendo R$ 1 = pouco mai de 486 CLPs / ou 1 CLP = R$ 0,00486 (cotação de 28/06/2016).Se você for morador de São Paulo, recomendo o serviço da Fair Corretora, pois eles entregam em domicílio, via motoboy e sem acrescer em nada, sobre a taxa de serviço cambial + IOF.
No total juntos, compramos 140 mil Pesos Chilenos para a viagem e depois de Torres del Paine, fizemos o câmbio do que restou para Pesos Argentinos para usarmos em El Chaltén.
Voltando ao relato 😉
Nossa carona nos deixou na rodoviária, para podermos comprar a passagem para Torres del Paine.
Assim como em El Calafate, existem algumas opções de empresas de ônibus que fazem o trecho, pois é um destino bem comum e também é possível barganhar por um preço mais em conta.
Aqui já foi mais fácil a compra do bilhete e ocorreu tudo bem.
Compramos ida e volta com a empresa “Buses Juan Ojeda” pelo preço de 20.000 CLPs (R$ 120).
Como o percurso para Torres del Paine pode se tornar imprevisível devido ao clima, é normal venderem com a volta com data em aberto.
Comprando passagem para Torres Del Paine
Logo que saímos da rodoviária, fomos em busca de um hostel e também não foi difícil achar.
Bem próximo, na Rua Juan McLean – 567, achamos o “Hostal La Estancia Patagonica” com café incluso, pela bagatela de 10 mil CLPs, equivalente a R$ 61 com a cotação que pegamos.
O atendimento é bem amistoso e ainda ganhamos um botijão de gás para usarmos, que foi deixado por outro hospede (pior que havíamos comprado um em El Calafate pelo equivalente a R$ 60 / ARS 17,65). Gostamos tanto do tratamento, que ficamos lá na volta.
[envira-gallery id=”2827″]
Ao contrário do quarto em que ficamos em El Calafate, neste Hostel era bem espaçoso, com banheiro privativo e TV.
Recomendo para qualquer um que for para lá 😉
• Telefone do Hostel: +56 9 9224 8601
• E-mail para contato: hostallaestanciapatagonica@gmail.com
• Página no Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/hostallaestancia.patagonica
Após conhecermos nosso quarto, deixamos nossas coisas, fomos passear pela cidade.
Também fizemos o câmbio de mais um pouco de CLP e finalizamos na Pizzaria Mesita Grande
[envira-gallery id=”2847″]
Veja mais fotos de El Calafate e Puerto Natales em nosso álbum no flickr
Agradecimento especial ao amigo Marcelo Sousa, que nos deu muitas dicas antes de viajarmos!
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